Bridges and Bears

by Shamala Kandiah Thompson

A couple of week-ends ago, looking for some adventure while Paul was off running in tropical cities, I decided to go in search of a new running route. So I set off for Bear Mountain State Park, a 10 minute drive from our place in Peekskill. I drove along Route 6 and parked along Route 9D at the eastern end of Bear Mountain Bridge so that I could start my run by crossing one of my favorite bridges. Bear Mountain Bridge, which opened to traffic on November 27, 1924, was the first bridge to span the Hudson River between Albany and New York City.  At the time it was the longest suspension bridge in the world. It’s also part of the Appalachian Trail, a footpath covering 2,160 miles from Maine to Georgia.

Bear Mountain Bridge in the Fall with Anthony's Nose in the background.

I headed towards Hessian Lake in Bear Mountain State Park which I knew to be just on the other side of the bridge. I was aiming for a a circuit of the lake to start with. In the summer it’s full of paddle boats and people fishing but at this time of year the lake there’s typically just a few hikers. I thought about running to the summit of Bear Mountain – but then I recalled how on a hike a few summers before I had clawed my way up on certain sections of polished granite. Maybe next time.

My run around Hessian Lake took a “revolutionary” turn when I came across this sign and found I was following in the footsteps of history:

Fighting at Hessian Lake marker.

The path leading down to the rail tracks and Bear Mountain Dock.

I had stumbled upon a trail taken in 1777 by the British when they set out to attack Forts Montgomery and Clinton during the Revolutionary War. I followed it and was led through a tunnel beneath route 9W.  I passed the Bear Mountain Park swimming pool. Cut into a ravine, for $2 it offers welcome relief from the summer heat.  I passed the entrance to the Trailside Museums and Zoo but decided I would check these out on the return leg and instead headed down towards the river.  The path took me through a tunnel and across the west point rail tracks and the  Bear Mountain Dock. In the 20s and 30s the park operated a fleet of river steamers that brought people up from New York City. Today it’s a popular spot for fishing and taking in the views of Bear Mountain Bridge and fall foliage.

Coming out of the tunnel I could see a few fisherman gathered on the dock.

I could have gone on to Iona Island, a National Natural Landmark which is part of Park Mountain Park but I opted instead to retrace my steps and visit the Trailside Museums and Zoo. Heading into the zoo I found myself back on the Appalachian Trail, at its lowest point of elevation. (A $1 donation is suggested as entry fee but I had no cash on me so I now owe the State until my next visit!)   The first thing I spotted was a larger than life Walt Whitman statue with a quote from his famous poem “Song of the Open Road” carved into a nearby stone.

Walt Whitman adding a literary touch to the Trailside Museums and Zoo trail.

Soon after I came across foxes, porcupines and coyotes in cages. I don’t enjoy seeing animals in cages.  It turns out, however, that all the animals are in fact injured or orphaned and wouldn’t survive in the wild so I guess they are better off in cages. Trailside Zoo started with a bear den in 1926 and the bears in their open enclosure are still the zoo’s biggest draw. The zoo only houses animals that native to New York State – it might be a bit scary to encounter some of them in their natural habitat.  I have to confess that by this point my run had slowed to a walk – I figured I might as well take in what the zoo had to offer in a more leisurely manner.

One of the two black bears in the zoo.

This magnificent bald eagle is another favorite. He’s located in the upper end of the zoo together with other raptors like owls, hawks, and vultures.

Sammy, the bald eagle looking quite regal.

I didn’t have time for the four museums (Reptile and Amphibian, Nature Study, Geology and History Museums) or the trail which connects Fort Clinton to Fort Montgomery across the Popolopen Creek Bridge. This gives me many good excuses to come back for another run someday soon.

On the way out I discovered that there is an entrance to the zoo and museums just across from the toll-booth for Bear Mountain Bridge. Good  to know for my next visit. I then ran across the bridge back to my car. (And I didn’t have to pay the $1.25 toll as I was on my own two feet!). All in all a fascinating run combining history with great views and local flora and fauna.

Kuala Lumpur vs Singapore: Which is the Best Running City?

by Paul Thompson

On the way back from South East Asia I read this CNN article  comparing the two cities I’d just visited – Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. It made me think how they compared as running cities.  I travelled back to New York from Kuala Lumpur via Singapore – 24 hours in the air and a 12 hour layover in Singapore meant I had bags of time to pen this comparison, using my wife’s categories for the best cities for running created for her recent blog post.

Climate
Both are barely a few degrees north of the equator, separated by about 200 miles. Hence, both experience almost identical tropical heat and humidity. This makes them less than ideal for running – as I complained in my last post. This tropical climate drives most indoors to the refuge of air conditioning and treadmills, leaving just the hard core, like former club runners at Singapore’s MR 25  and KL’s (as the locals call Kuala Lumpur) Pacesetters. However, Singapore enjoys the occasional breeze, due perhaps to its proximity to the sea, and cleaner air.

Verdict: Singapore

A view of KLCC Park taken from the Petronas Twin Towers.

Green Spaces
As cities that have grown rapidly green space is often crowded out by people, buildings and traffic. That said, both offer some great running routes in close proximity to the city centre. KL has its Lake Gardens and the adjacent green upscale residential district of Kenny Hills and the government quarter. And right in the city’s core is the running track at KLCC Park: a short circuit but with jaw dropping views of the majestic Petronas Twin Towers. But to get off road you need to head further out to places like Bukit Kiara, offering hundreds of acres of rain forest (sadly slowly being eaten away by condo developments). On the city’s outer fringes there are many rubber or palm oil plantations which offer endless miles of off road running, in the shade, on estate tracks.

Monkeys are a common site along the trails in MacRitchie Reservoir in Singapore.

As I explained in my recent post, Singapore has a number of options including: MacRitchie Reservoir – miles of off road running routes through secondary rain forest; Bukit Timah Nature Reserve – Singapore’s highest point which offers challenging off road running, some through primary rainforest; Bukit Brown – a Chinese cemetery about to be buried by an expressway: East Coast, a long thin strip of green running for miles from central Singapore to the airport (last week I anchored a second placed mixed team half ironman, running a 1:18 half marathon in 90F heat and 90% humidity – I was glad just to finish); and KTM rail line – a recently grassed over rail bed of almost 30 miles from the city centre to the far north of the island.

Verdict: Singapore

Sidewalks (aka pavements)
This is a no brainer. In Singapore you will find wide, level pavements and law abiding motorists. KL on the other hand combines some of the worst pavements anywhere with manic motorcyclists and taxi drivers, making its streets a dangerous obstacle course. KL’s pavements have entered local folklore. A few years back it was decided to pave almost every sidewalk with shiny mosaic tiles. Today many of these tiles are now broken, stolen, and pockmarked with ankle breaking holes. And when it rains  they might as well be an ice rink.

Verdict: Singapore

The Petronas Twin Towers are a stunning sight at night.

Scenery
Both cities have eye popping cityscapes – stunning architectural buildings, old and new, to take your mind off the heat and humidity. KL has its Petronas Twin Towers  and KL Tower. Singapore, meanwhile, has even more to offer including its Esplanade (its answer to the Sydney Opera House), the Padang (a cricket field surrounded by colonial era buildings), the stunning new Marina Bay Sands, and the world’s largest big wheel, the Singapore Flyer. But while Singapore may have the edge in terms of architectural wonders KL has the vantage points from which to appreciate what it has.

The latest additions to Singapore’s skyline: The Flyer, the Esplanade building and Marina Bay Sands.

Verdict: KL

Bodies of Water
Singapore is a small island so not surprisingly you are never far from water. Even in the middle of the island there is the central catchment area, a cluster of reservoirs, some, like MacRitchie, circumnavigated by trails suitable for running. And then there are the drainage canals, which increasingly are accompanied by paths such as the Ulu Pandan Connector. KL, meanwhile, is land-locked and almost bereft of water aisde from a few small lakes such as those at the Lake Gardens and KLCC.

Verdict: Singapore

Overall Verdict: Both places, as former homes and home to friends and family, I like and miss very much. So choosing between them is hard. But for running at least Singapore wins by a neck.

Here Comes Spring

by Shamala Kandiah Thompson

While Paul has been running in tropical heat, getting sun-burnt and complaining about the humidity, I’ve been reveling in the mild weather in New York.  Spring has come early. Temperatures are in the 60s and 70s and the days are longer (partly thanks to the clocks being moved forward.) I love casting off the layers and feeling the sun’s warmth on my skin.

But the highlight for me at this time of year are the buds and blossoms that suddenly burst out. It’s a great season for a sometimes reluctant runner who loves taking photos. The promise of capturing spring’s arrival gives me the incentive I need to get out for a run immediately after work. Frequent stops to smell the flowers and take pictures can make runs a bit disjointed.  But I’ve learnt to just let nature lead the way on these runs. And I certainly wasn’t the only one one distracted from my exercise by the sights of Spring.

For the last three weeks I’ve been strapping my camera round my waist and heading up to Central Park at least once a week. I wanted to see the park slowly come to life as it casts off its winter garb.

In the first week of March the predominant colors were yellow and purple.

Just one tree showing signs of Spring around Gapstow Bridge but it was warm enough to sit and enjoy the view.

Crocuses are one of the earliest flowers to make an appearance in Central Park.

A cheerful sign that Spring has arrived.

My run in Central Park in the second week of March revealed trees sprouting brightly colored buds and flowers.

Magnolia buds about to burst into bloom.

And by the third week of March, after a week of unseasonably warm weather, many of the trees were in full bloom. unse

Flowering Forsythia livening up the landscape.

Looks like there might be easier ways than running to enjoy the Spring blossoms.

Pomona, Roman Goddess of Orchards and Gardens, appropriately framed by blossom-filled trees.

Saucer magnolia trees were in full bloom all over the park.

Now I can’t wait for the cherry blossom trees around the reservoir to start flowering.  Here’s a glimpse of what to expect:

Yoshino cherry trees in bloom along the east side of the Reservoir (Spring 2011).

It’s Still Too Hot Here!

by Paul Thompson

Right now I’m in Singapore, staying with my in-laws. A work assignment brings me back – to a place where I lived, worked, married and ran. The 24 hour flight and 12 hour time difference have left me jet lagged and sleep deprived. No prizes for guessing what I did soon after arriving. I figured it would help revive me – and heavy rain had reduced the temperature to an almost bearable 27C (80F), but pushed the humidity to 100%.

My 6 mile run took me through Dover (a former British military and residential neighborhood), past Biopolis (a research and development ‘hub’ – Singapore loves ‘hubs’), and ended on a drainage canal that forms part of the Ulu Pandan Park Connector. Soon after getting back, and after several cups of coffee, I gave up trying to revive myself and took a nap – for 5 hours, slightly more than the 40 winks I had in mind.

At 10pm later that day I was wide awake, as though it were 10am. As indeed it was according to my body clock. So I ventured out for my second run, a 6 mile loop that took me past Ngee Ann Polytechnic, where I used to teach, and down Old Holland Road where a few skateboarders were all that punctured the late night silence (see this motorcyclists’ video clip complete with Bollywood soundtrack).

It’s now the end of the day after I arrived. It was warmer today, a more normal 32C (90F). The rain had stopped and the sun had poked it’s head out from behind the clouds. I did a 4 mile run this morning, again along the Ulu Pandan Park Connector (this time going in the opposite direction to the previous day), and then a 6 mile run this evening (the Dover run as above but with a circuit of University Town).

The canal along the Ulu Pandan connector with a MRT train passing by overhead.

The last few days have confirmed what I always knew. That Singapore is too hot to be ideal for running – more so when you have just come from 5C (40F) in New York. Still it’s a fascinating place to run in.

Over the coming few days I hope to rediscover my old running routes including: MacRitchie Reservoir, from which MR25 (the running club I used to compete for until I left 7 years ago) gets its name; the Singapore Botanic Gardens, an urban oasis just minutes from Orchard Road, Singapore’s answer to New York’s Fifth Avenue; and Bukit Brown, an old Chinese cemetery. I also plan on exploring the new running options offered by the closure of the Singapore-Kranji railway line and the turfing over of its tracks.

And to cap it all on Sunday, March 18 I compete in the 2012 Aviva Ironman 70.3 Singapore – actually as part of a mixed team with Nicholas Fang (bike) and Shu Yin Ong (swim). Nick and I are unbeaten in Singapore – so far! Watch this space.

One of the ponds in Botanic Gardens.

What Makes a Good Running City?

by Shamala Kandiah Thompson

Paul and I never travel without our running shoes. Often the first thing we do when we arrive in a new place is put our shoes on and head out for a run. Reading this article in Forbes listing America’s best cities for running (Atlanta, Austin, Boulder, Boston, Chicago, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New York, Portland, San Francisco, Washington D.C. ) got me thinking about what I look for, as a runner, in a new city. Here’s my list:

Sidewalks: Broad, uncrowded sidewalks (or pavements as I call them) or cycle routes are key in cities. Running on roads present too big a risk. I’ve run in cities like Jakarta and Bangalore where the sidewalks are an obtacle course of vendors, or animals or both, and potholes.  Manhattan’s sidewalks are often clogged up with pedestrians: avoid streets with lots of shops like 5th Avenue (Park Avenue is best) or take to the East River Greenway or Hudson River Greenway.

Lots of races take place in Central Park throughout the year.

Green Spaces: A large park is a big draw for me. New York’s Central Park gets high marks for both size, views and accessibility. It’s the centerpiece of New York’s running scene. Other cities with good running parks include London where I’ve run in Hyde Park and Regent’s Park and Vancouver’s Stanley Park. But the best city for green spaces has to be Boulder with its 144 miles of trails. Combine that with altitude and you’re guaranteed a good, if somewhat tough, workout. (Check out our recent post. Boulder With the Boys, for  photos of off-road running in North Boulder.)

Routes: Interesting and scenic running routes can be a great way to savor a new city. A loop of the Mall covers the historic highlights of Washington D.C. from the Lincoln Memorial, National Monument and Reflecting Pool, to the Capitol building. Competitive runners can take in these sights on  the Cherry Blossom Ten Mile Run.  Other cities that appear high on my list are Prague (for its classic architecture) Sydney (for its iconic Opera House, Harbour Bridge and harbor), and Hong Kong (for its breathtaking skyline, best viewed from Victoria Peak)

The view from Victoria Peak in Hong Kong is worth the hilly run to get there.

Paul being blown about on a run in Boston in April 2011.

Climate: I’m not a cold weather runner. I prefer warmer temperatures and as little wind as possible. Boston and Chicago (which are on the Forbes list) are often too blustery or cold for me. Paul, on the other hand, complains about the energy sapping humidity of Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, although there are some good running routes in both cities. (He’ll be in both places soon so look out for posts about his former running haunts.)

Bodies of Water: I like water so cities with canals, lakes, rivers, sea-fronts are more likely to get my vote.  Paths around West Lake in Hanoi and along the Mekong River in Phnom Penh allow for enjoyable runs in not so runner-friendly cities.  And in my home country, Singapore, running through the Esplanade Park reveals views of the Singapore River set against the ever-changing Singapore cityscape.

The Singapore skyline with its mix of old and new buildings.

Race Report: Coogan’s Salsa, Blues and Shamrocks 5K, New York, March 4

by Paul Thompson

With a title like that this race has quite a billing to live up to. And it does. It’s a New York cult classic – and for the past few years the opening race in the New York Road Runners (NYRR) club race series. One of the few NYRR races held outside of Central Park, it threads through the northern Manhattan neighborhood of Washington Heights.

Runners heading up the first hill in Washington Heights.

The race is a microcosm of New York: 5000 runners ranging from Ethiopians at the sharp-end to fancy dress at the back; entertainment ranging from bagpipes and marching band through to salsa and blues; and a melting pot of spectators lining the streets from Irish to Dominican.

Standing on the start line the emcee reminded us that the area was steeped in history – the course passes by the site of Battle of Fort Washington, fought during the American Revolution.  So how fitting that just before the gun there was a rendition of the Star-Spangled Banner, the national anthem of the U.S.A.. Then we were off.

This out and back course is perhaps the toughest of all NYRR races. It takes in the hills of the northern tip of Manhattan. By the first mile, which I covered in 5:07, you’ve crested two hills. You then descend into Fort Tyron Park. At this point I think I heard “A Hard Day’s Night” bellowing out from the sidewalk. It was barely 9:06am and it was already proving to be a hard day.

Just before the 2 mile point, with the clock reading 10:18, I passed by a female marching band. I had to admire how they braved cold winds in skirts shorter than my shorts. Cresting the last hill at 2.5 miles it’s then a long downhill straight into the finish. I could see a long thin line of runners in front of me including team mate Sebastien B. (on track to a 15:44 PR).

The finishing line teases you. You see it from half a mile away but it gets closer much too slowly. I jousted with Emiliano Garcia, originally from Mexico now based in Queens, and an occasional training partner, as I passed three miles in 15:32. He edged me by a second as I crossed the line 28th in 16:02, bagging top age grade with 89.1%.

Paul and Emiliano going head-to-head near on the way to the finish line.

Within a few minutes there was a melee of runners in the finishing area sharing stories and feasting on free green bagels (St. Patrick’s Day is next week). The results (see here for NYRR pictures and story) revealed Warren Street Social and Athletic Club to be second men’s masters team and fifth men’s open team.

The Coogan’s experience does not end on the finish line. Post race several hundred runners squeeze into Coogan’s Restaurant to enjoy free Guinness, Shepherd’s Pie and unlimited and intoxicating running camaraderie. Two hours later Shamala and I were on the 1 train heading home to Peekskill. The New York running scene has it all. And more.

Guinness and camaraderie make for a heady post-race mix.

Party Like A Runner

by Shamala Kandiah Thompson

Earlier in the week I attended my seventh New York Road Runners (NYRR) Club Night.  I don’t belong to a running club nor do I race.  But I have good reason to go. For the last five years, ever since he turned 40, I’ve been able to cheer as Paul won his age group award. I love watching him be recognized for his talent and hard work.  And I know he’s chuffed to be acknowledged by the New York running community. As a friend said of my photo below of Paul receiving his sixth consecutive award, “he looks like a kid in a candy store!”

Paul with Peter Ciaccia, NYRR Vice-President and Mary Wittenberg, NYRR President.

For the last three years the event has been held at the Hard Rock Cafe. Not quite as fancy as the Hilton Hotel ball room, the former venue.  And it’s finger food and two free drinks’ coupons rather than a three course sit down meal and free flow of booze. But the running community knows how to enjoy itself, especially once the dance floor clears and the music begins. Suddenly the floor is packed with widly gyrating runners, dancing being a new form of cross training on an otherwise low mileage day.

New York's finest runners burning up some calories on the dance floor.

It’s an evening where runners get to celebrate running and each others achievements while dressed to the nines.  At my first Club Night I realized that the correct attire, for women at least, is a little tight black number with high heels. The shorter the skirt the better – to show off toned thighs and curvaceous  calves. Fortunately most of the women can carry it off. Particularly inspiring are the older ones, like Kathryn Martin, who are great ads for the benefits of regular exercise. Not a fallen bum or saggy upper arm in sight.

It’s also a time for teams to come together for a social evening. Our team captain, Mike Guastella, arrived early enough to ‘claim’ a team table, with a birds-eye view of the stage, using a bogus ‘reserved’ sign. The Warren Street team table was a nice mix of veterans and younger runners. Besides Paul, two young promising team mates went home with  “Freddie” awards (named in honor of Fred Lebow, former NYRR president and co-founder of the New York City Marathon). Sebastien B. won the 30-34 age group award and Lauren Salisbury took the top award in the 20-24 category. Warren Street bagged third place in the masters team category after being top team for the last three years. Paul is determined they will wrest it back from Urban Athletics starting tomorrow at the the first club race of the 2012 season, the Coogan’s Salsa, Blues and Shamrock 5K. All in all a great night for those of us living the running life.

Paul, Lauren and Sebastien with their "Freddie" awards.